COZUMEL, Mexico
-- Time was, a decade or so ago, when this tiny gem of a
Mexican island modestly promoted itself as the world's "best
kept travel secret."
Well, it isn't a secret
anymore.
Like a welcome invasion, tourists swarm
here by the thousands for the world-famous diving amid
spectacular coral reefs or for days lounging sun-baked at a
string of decently priced, all-inclusive beachside hotels.
But the big growth industry nowadays is the
fleet of cruise ships which bring swarms of enthusiastic
day-trippers. They shop for silver and leather handicrafts,
colourful souvenirs, creative pottery and cheap local liquor.
'850 ships a year'
 The island's charms are soon apparent.
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"When the
cruise ship business started here in the early 1970s, we had
maybe 60 ships a year," says Angel Pavia Solis, public
relations director for the mayor of San Miguel, the island's
only town. "Now we get more than 850 a year -- about 1.4
million people."
The island's charms are soon
apparent. Situated on the Caribbean side of Mexico, Cozumel is
about 50 km long and 15 km wide. The terrain varies from sandy
beaches to rocky textures laced by tenacious shrubs and vines.
There are some swampy spots, home to soaring exotic birds and
even the occasional crocodile.
Only about 3% of
the land is developed, notably charming old San Miguel, with
its latticework of shops and twisting lanes, outdoor cafes and
a lantern-strung main square where musicians, dancers,
visitors and sidewalk artists gather on balmy evenings.
"Another day in a cheap postcard," is the
catch-phrase of Cozumel's languid regulars.
Swaying palms
 Cozumel is famous for its diving.
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It's a
phrase that accurately describes life in the dazzling,
sometimes over-coloured world of platinum-hued sand,
sapphire-and-turquoise seas, swaying palms, breathtaking
sunsets and bouquets of orchids and fist-sized hibiscus
blooms.
The west side of Cozumel is the most
developed, with many of the better hotels and privately owned
homes stretching north of San Miguel. The younger, more
athletic set is attracted to the south, where hotels are more
modestly priced, and where visitors go scuba diving, drink the
local beer and enjoy beachside eateries.
From San Miguel there is a flat, straight-as-an-arrow
highway to the east side -- "the wild side," as locals call
it -- where the spectacular scenery is rougher, waves break
higher and swimmers are warned of tricky undertows.
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"Another day in a cheap postcard"